Saturday, December 2, 2017

Wiring\Electrical

The standard AC wiring was installed and has an outlet accessible underneath in the middle. There are plenty of outlets around on all the walls. I also installed low voltage for running everything on a battery bank. I also added RJ45 jacks underneath for quick easy access for a data network, security cameras, phone lines, long range wifi equipment or anything else needed. There's also a cable jack for an antenna or cable service. There's RV lights in the ceiling as well as regular AC lights for running off a generator or grid power. I added cable jacks inside along with RJ45 for a data network. There's also wiring in place on a wall to mount a tv on the wall if desired.

I am running everything off solar and batteries. In this case I got some extra Canadian solar 250w and a damaged old Sharp 200w. I can see a regular 35-45Amps at 12v. I have a Midnite Classic 150 controller that does an excellent job of all that power. There's room to grow also. I built a very basic ground rack to mount the panels and keep them out of the weeds that grow 3-4' high.










Some info on batteries and solar:
Batteries
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more will give you longer run time. Forklift or cell tower backup batteries can be found used etc. You can use L16 sized or golf cart batteries(GC2) or AGM. For 12v 2 6v wired in series, then wire pairs of 2 in parallel. Something like 10-12 should work for starters and keep you running
virtually everything. Or you can wire 3 8v in series or 4 6v in series for 24v but you need to match all voltages of devices and battery bank. Then you would need a 24v reducing device for running 12v devices, like this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ARRAXZW/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1485894357&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=24v+to+12v+dc+converter&dpPl=1&dpID=51f04WNzDmL&ref=plSrch
Or just keep it all 12v for simplicity sake but then your wiring has to be
bigger and you are more limited in number of panels you can connect to each charge controller etc so there are other complications. Best price on batteries I have found is at Sams club and Costco the 6v batteries are $85ea and Costco told me they will accept an AA battery to remove the core charge per battery. Or Batteries Plus has Duracell 6v for $99 and you may get 10% off if you ask for it. Making the price $90ea or order online and pick up in store using the online coupon code. You can also ask around to find old batteries people have laying around you can turn in to remove the core charge. There are also 12v AGM 100ah batteries on Amazon shipped for $160. Standard lead acid batteries need a box and venting to exterior. AGM or Lithium don't need venting. Battle Born has the best price on 100ah Lithium drop in style 12v batteries. At around $800 ea, but check around for deals.
There are millions of vids on Youtube on selecting sizing installing
and maintaining solar and battery systems.
Your other option is to set up a grid tie system and just offset your power bill.
 For a few suggestions on maintaining your batteries. Don't discharge a lead Acid or AGM down below 50% or about 12.1v. A battery monitor like the Trimetric or Victron that tracks State of Charge(SOC) is easier
and more accurate to use. Keep your battery water level filled properly. Make sure to charge properly with factory recommended voltages for best results. And research equalizing your battery bank based on your battery type. You will probably have to resort to a generator for A/C. Unless you have around 2000w and 8-10 batteries with a larger inverter. Something like the Honda EU3000 Pure Sine Wave inverter generator would work fa
ntastic. But here is a page to educate you on generators. Pay the extra for the Pure Sine Wave, your electronics will last longer and will thank you.
http://www.chainsawjournal.com/whats-the-best-2000-watt-generator/
.
There are also knockoff brands that seem to be working well for many
like the Champion and Predator. Regardless of the brand stick with the Pure Sine Inverter style. It's better for your electronics and some devices won't even work without the Pure Sine.
If you’re trying to do install it yourself, one has to put in the time and effort to learn. Or just pay someone who already has. Find a Solar Facebook group or website and start reading. Don't just join and start asking how do I choose a system. That has been covered a million times all you have to do is use the search button and read. The info is there exercise your grey matter and educate yourself. You're doing yourself a favor in the long run. You can watch vids on Youtube, one series is by Pippi Peterson
and she does a great explanation of solar systems. A useful FB group to join is “Solar Powered RV'sand Boondocking”. Brian Boone runs it and does installs while traveling the country. He does personally restrict links to products and info as he sells products and makes a living doing it. They are good products for average prices. Some nice panels for example is 160w US MADE 12v panels for
$165 shipped, very good bang for the buck. They are about the largest to ship without freight charges.
160W Panel
http://www.ebay.com/itm/272008199222?rmvSB=true
There are larger panels available that can be found online etc but most require pallet shipping which starts at $300ish if you're buying a
few it's not bad but building as you have money it gets expensive. Check around on CL and your local Solar installers they many times will have damaged or extras. Might be worth it.
Brian Boone's blog
https://gotsolarinstalled.blogspot.com/ with links to products etc, all are available on Amazon or Ebay
For panels:
HQST, Solar World, Canadian Solar, Renogy, EcoWorthy, Grape, Hyundai, Trina, H
ightec,
Windy Nation,
NO Harbor Freight!!!
Charge Controllers:
Magnum, Midnite, Outback, Victron, Bluesky, Renogy
Batteries:
Vmax AGM, Amazon 100AH, Interstate Lead Acid, Duracell Lead Acid.
Battery Monitor:
Trimetric or Victron
Inverter(Pure Sine Only):
Magnum, Aims, Go power, Xantrex, Victron


Generators:

(Pure Sine Only Inverter type) Honda EU2000 or EU3000 are excellent. Yamaha has similar. Here is a good link to learn about generators.
htthttp://www.chainsawjournal.com/whats-the-best-2000-watt-generator/
.
Off Grid and fridge\freezer:
Since many are off grid I thought I would throw this in here to point
some in the right direction. There are 12v portable coolers that are convenient from Coleman or others.They work sort of but only cool 40deg lower than ambient temperature. So at 90 deg they can only hit 50deg which is too warm. Up to 40 deg is max recommended temp for refrig.They aren't necessarily the most efficient, but certainly an easy option. There are better compressor style refrig/freezer coolers.  They are much more expensive but they have digital temp control down to below zero. Many use them as a freezer to make ice that is then kept in a cooler. They are brands like Outsunny, Della, Dometic, Edgestar etc. They will work more efficiently using less power and will actually maintain temp regardless of ambient temperature. There are the obvious Home type fridges of different sizes. There are regular RV style fridges that come in 2 or 3 way being 12v, Propane and 120v electric. Those tend
to be very expensive and many newer RV's are not even using them anymore. They are switching to battery banks inverters and 120v since they are so efficient now. There are also DC low voltage fridges
available I believe in 12v mostly but also 24v. They also tend to be a bit expensive but are gettingbetter. There is also the option of using a standard chest freezer used as a fridge. There are plug in modules with a temp sensor you just plug it into and set the temp and it will run it at about 35deg.
There's also ways to modify the temp control module. These can all be found through a search engine with terms similar to modify chest freezer refrigerator. 

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